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Calculating Hand Odds
Each time you decide on a course of action or respond to what opponents do in poker you are taking and laying odds. Even though No Limit Holdem quite often comes down to a 'Have they or haven't they got it' decision, there are many situations where the odds that you are getting on a hand will dictate your action. For example, in a game such as Limit Holdem or Omaha a lot of the decisions you take are mathematical ones based on the 'pot odds'. In lots of hands there may even be no point trying to bluff a player because of the odds, but in others you could almost call blind. It's therefore important to have a strong idea of the odds of making or defending your hand in any given situation, and the ability to quickly compare them to the 'pot odds' you are getting or giving. Tournament poker, in particular, is one area where all top players know inside out the odds of their hand winning an all-in against other hands, because these confrontations come up so frequently. Most of them don't like playing all-ins that are close to even money, and some will even fold as a decent favourite rather than risk a big all-in early on, because they expect to have a better chance of outplaying amateurs in smaller pots. But even for the greats there comes a point in a tournament when playing an all-in is necessary, and - needless to say - you should always be looking to be a clear favourite when this happens. Poker odds can be examined in a variety of ways, and we have split them into sections below to make the process easier, as well as listing some common confrontations with percentages for you to learn and remember. I've omitted odds from flop to turn, and on the turn, as these can simply be calculated by counting the outs for or against you out of the remaining cards. BASIC ODDS With these parameters the chances of getting a pocket pair are 16/1, and of making it into trips or quads on the flop 12%. The chances of getting Aces are 220/1 against and AK about 1.2%, and, given you don't have a pair, you will make one on the flop about one third of the time and about 49% of the time by the river. With suited cards, you will make a flush 8.4% of the time by the river but only flop a flush 0.84% of the time, and flop a flush draw nearly 11% of the time of which it will be completed with a frequency of 38.3%. If you flop an open-ended straight draw, it will complete 34% of the time. The flop will be all of one suit some 5% of the time, two suited cards 55% and rainbow 40%. All of this is interesting to know, and there are many other interesting facts in poker, but often such information is of limited use since your equity in a situation also depends on what cards your opponents are holding in any given situation. Because of this, in some games (especially Omaha) you may ignore 'redraws' if only looking at one side of the equation and overestimate your chances. On the other hand, you may be in a better position than you think. For example, in Holdem the chances of completing your flush draw after the flop are low, but if you also have a live Ace (see Ah3h vs 9s 9d in the Hand Match-Ups box by clicking the 'How To' button) they are much better. So basic odds are certainly important, because they give you a framework to think within, but you mustn't forget that poker is also about situations and psychology as well as mathematics - so although the chances of any given player having Aces pre-flop in Holdem may be 220/1 against, unless they raise blind every hand, when they do raise the true odds are going to be a whole lot shorter. PRE-FLOP, ALL-IN HAND MATCH-UPS If you're considering a call, compare this information with the pot odds you are getting and decide if the risk is worth it with a marginal hand, and consider whether you are likely to be pot-committed if raising or facing a re-raise all-in. Everyone is familiar with the concept of 50-50s or race situations in Holdem where a pair takes on two overcards, and because these are unavoidable you should always be looking to get the money in during situations where you can be evens or better. For example, AK may run up against AQ as well as 88 and therefore be a good all-in investment, whereas the best 22 can hope for is overcards and a bigger pair would be a 9/2 against disaster. You can raise all-in but not call an all-in with it. Notice from the odds listed that the emphasis is therefore on drawing to 'live' cards in a showdown - such as with A6 v 77 only the A is a live out and in A7 v AK only the 7 is live, putting both hands in very bad shape. When there are no pairs or duplications, things are much closer with AK v 89s and AJ v Q9 being 3/2 shots, and middle connectors like 89s v A4 being virtually evens shots. ON THE FLOP For example, if you have a combination hand like a live ace and flush draw against a pair, a straight and flush draw, or a pair and a draw, you're likely to be in reasonable shape unless you run into a monster, whereas the wrong end of a straight draw or a second best flush could obviously cost you dear. Similarly, running a big pair into trips or going up against someone with two pair or a better pair is likely to be disastrous for your bankroll.
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